This guide outlines the critical steps for winterizing an RV to prevent freeze damage, which is a common cause of insurance claims. It details two methods—Air Blow-out and RV Antifreeze—providing a structured approach to safely prepare the RV for cold weather storage.
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Freeze damage is the single most common cause of major RV insurance claims. PEX plumbing is resilient, but
plastic fittings, toilet valves, and water heater tanks will crack at the first sign of a hard freeze. This
guide provides the technical order of operations for both the Air Blow-out and RV Antifreeze methods.
graph TD
Freeze[Temp < 32°F?] --> Status{RV occupied?}
Status -- Yes --> Heat[Keep Furnace ON + Skirting]
Status -- No --> Method{Winterize Method?}
Method -- Air --> Blow[Blow Out with Compressed Air]
Method -- Antifreeze --> Pink[Pump in Non-Toxic Antifreeze]
Blow --> Both[Safe for storage]
Pink --> Both
Phase 1: The Essential Drain Down
Regardless of the method you choose, you must begin by removing all standing water from the largest vessels in
the coach.
Critical Safety: Never drain the water heater while it is hot or under pressure. Pull the T&P
(Temperature and Pressure) relief valve first to release the vacuum before unscrewing the drain plug.
Drain Fresh Tank: Locate the low-point drain or the tank's dedicated dump valve.
Empty Black & Gray Tanks: Perform a thorough flush at a dump station. Use a tank wand if
possible to remove sensors' debris.
Drain Water Heater: Remove the anode rod (Suburban) or plastic plug (Atwood). Leave it out
for the winter to allow for expansion.
Low Point Drains: Open the "Hot" and "Cold" low-point drains (usually under the coach or in
a wet bay) and open all faucets to allow gravity to pull the water out.
Phase 2: Air Blow-out vs. RV Antifreeze
Which method is right for you? It depends on your climate and your tolerance for risk.
Method A: Compressed Air (The Quick Way)
PSI Limit: Set your compressor to MAX 30 PSI. Higher pressure can damage
plastic fittings.
Process: Use a "Blow-out Plug" on the city water inlet. Open one faucet at a time until
only air comes out. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower.
Risk: Air can bypass "low spots" in the plumbing where water can still collect and freeze.
Method B: RV Antifreeze (The Secure Way)
The Pink Stuff: Use only non-toxic Propylene Glycol (Pink). Never use automotive antifreeze
in your water lines.
Bypass First: Ensure your water heater bypass valves are turned. If you don't, you will
waste 6–10 gallons of antifreeze filling the heater tank.
Pumping: Use the pump's "winterizing kit" (suction tube) to pull antifreeze into the lines.
Open faucets until the liquid runs pure pink.
The Trap Trap: Even if you use the air method, you must pour a cup of pink
antifreeze into every P-trap (sink drains and shower) and the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seals and trap
curves.
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About the Author
Adam Hall — Founder, DecisionGrid
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